4duino – Arduino Uno Compatible Products

Purchase 4duino here

4tronix have created a range of Arduino compatible boards with our own brand of magic.

All members of this new range are fully compatible with Arduino Uno software, and the 2 larger Uno form factor boards are fully hardware compatible as well

In addition, the 4duino range features:

• 16MHz ATMega328P-AU processors
• 14 Digital I/O pins (5 of which can be PWM – Pulse Width Modulated)
• 8 Analog input pins (6 of which can be Digital I/O as well)
• Built-in 5V regulators (check individual specifications for current ratings)
• Reset buttons
• Full USB interface (using CH340 interface chip)
• Micro-USB connector

The 4duino Uno full-size products also have:

• DC Jack for powering via up to 11V
• Coloured coded pins (Pro) or available holes for 3-pin sensors (GVS – Ground, Volts, Signal) for all 22 I/O pins

Schematics

You can download the schematics for these boards from the following links

• 4duino and Pro
• 4duino Mini
• 4duino Mini Pro

Programming 4duino Boards

As these boards are fully compatible with the standard Arduino Uno, you should follow the instructions and reference examples at www.arduino.cc to download programming software, libraries, example files and lots of tutorials.

The additional motor drivers on the Pro versions of these boards you will need the pin information and a brief example:

• Motor A Pins: D5 and D9
• Motor B Pins: D6 and D10

The motor driver is a standard dual H-Bridge (DRV8833 chip):

• Setting one pin High and the other Low will drive the motor one direction
• Swapping High and Low will drive the motor in the opposite direction
• Setting both to Low, or both to High will stop the motor
• (setting both High will brake the motor quickly, setting both Low will allow the motor to coast to a stop)
• The following code, drives one motor forwards, then backwards, then stops:

// the setup routine runs once when you press reset:
void setup() {
// initialize the digital pins we will use as an output.
pinMode(D5, OUTPUT);
pinMode(D9, OUTPUT);
}

// the loop routine runs over and over again forever:
void loop() {
// Forwards, then wait 500ms
digitalWrite(D5, HIGH);
digitalWrite(D9, LOW);
delay(500);
// Reverse, then wait 500ms
digitalWrite(D5, LOW);
digitalWrite(D9, HIGH);
delay(500);
// Stop, then wait 500ms
digitalWrite(D5, LOW);
digitalWrite(D9, LOW);
delay(500);
}

Powering the Boards

The 4Duino range can be powered by putting between 7 and 10V into the DC Jack connector (not available on the Mini or Mini Pro). It can also be powered with 5V on the USB connector – eg. connecting directly to a PC. Finally it can be powered by putting 5V onto the 5V signal.

Powering the Motors

The motors use a separate power supply from the Arduino processor. This is because the 5V regulators cannot deliver as much current as you may need to use, but this depends on the motors used.

4Duino Pro: You can select using jumper J3 whether the motor power is taken from the DC Jack input or the separate 2-pin screw terminal. The full voltage on the selected input is used to drive the motor. Note that the Ground signal is common to the Arduino chip, the DC Jack input and the 2-pin terminal.

4Duino Mini Pro: The power for the motors is taken from the end pin labelled ‘+’. For low power motors this “could be” connected directly to the 5V pin on the board, but probably best to connect to the Vin pin.

Download the CH340 Drivers for your OS

• Windows
• Mac
• Raspberry Pi/Linux and also see Jarle’s blog for Raspberry Pi installs and usage

4duino Uno

This is software and hardware compatible with an Arduino Uno. You can use all the same addon Shields and get the same performance. In addition, we have made the extra 2 Analog pins available via the holes on the board into which you can solder headers if required.

These extra analog pins can be used within the Arduino IDE as A6 and A7. Note that they are analog ONLY – there is no ability to do a digital read or write on them and there is no ability to set pullup resistors.

Currently, the 4duino Uno is a depopulated 4duino Uno Pro board – so you can upgrade it to the full Pro specification with some surface mount soldering! Adding the GVS headers is much easier and a great upgrade though.

The USB interface is via the CH340 chip which has drivers available for all operating systems here.

On board 5V regulator: 1A

 

4duino Uno Pro

This is the fully populated version of the board that includes an integrated 2-channel H-bridge motor driver (the DRV8833).

The 4duino Uno Pro is fully hardware and software compatible with an Arduino Uno. You can use all the same addon Shields and get the same performance. In addition we have added colour-coded GVS headers for all the I/O pins including the additional 2 analog pins, A6 and A7. Note that these additional analog pins are analog ONLY – there is no ability to do a digital read or write on them and there is no ability to set pullup resistors.

The great news is that the Pro version also includes a 2-channel full H-bridge motor driver so you can control motors without requiring any addition shields or messy wiring. In fact, with the GVS headers installed, together with the motor drivers, the 4duino Uno Pro is like combing an Uno, sensor shield and motor shield into a single board!

On board 5V regulator: 1A

Motor control Pins:

• Motor 0:  D5, D9
• Motor 1:  D6, D10

 

4duino Mini

The 4duino Mini is an extremely small version of the Arduino Uno with all the same I/O pins, USB interface, reset button and voltage regulator.

All 22 I/O pins are brought out to the board edge where you can connect directly to them or solder in the provided headers.

The extra 2 analog pins can be used within the Arduino IDE as A6 and A7. Note that they are analog ONLY – there is no ability to do a digital read or write on them and there is no ability to set pullup resistors.

It is intended that headers, if fitted, are fitted so that the underside of the board is visible during use. This side of the board has no components and so has more room for labelling of all the pins.

Certain pins have symbols around them:

• Circle: this is a digital pin that is capable of PWM
• Octagon:  These are the Ground connections
• Square:  One of these is 5V and is either a 5V input to the board, or a 5V output if you are using the onboard 5V regulator. The other square is the VIN for the voltage regulator. This can be from 6V to 9V. So if you are using this board with 4xAA batteries you would have a 6V nominal voltage which you apply to the VIN and GND inputs. You can then use the 5V pin to power the rest of your ciruit (up to 150mA)

On board 5V voltage regulator:  150mA

• Dimensions: 33.75 x 18.5 x 1mm
• Weight: 2g

 

4duino Mini Pro

The 4duino Mini Pro is a slightly longer version of the 4duino Mini. The extra length is used to house the dual H-Bridge motor driver and associated components, as well as the motor power input and motor power outputs. The remainder of the board is identical to the 4duino Mini

All 22 I/O pins are brought out to the board edge where you can connect directly to them or solder in the provided headers.

The extra 2 analog pins can be used within the Arduino IDE as A6 and A7. Note that they are analog ONLY – there is no ability to do a digital read or write on them and there is no ability to set pullup resistors.

It is intended that headers, if fitted, are fitted so that the underside of the board is visible during use. This side of the board has no components and so has more room for labelling of all the pins.

Certain pins have symbols around them:

• Circle: this is a digital pin that is capable of PWM
• Octagon:  These are the Ground connections
• Square:  One of these is 5V and is either a 5V input to the board, or a 5V output if you are using the onboard 5V regulator. The other square is the VIN for the voltage regulator. This can be from 6V to 9V. So if you are using this board with 4xAA batteries you would have a 6V nominal voltage which you apply to the VIN and GND inputs. You can then use the 5V pin to power the rest of your ciruit (up to 150mA)

On board 5V voltage regulator:  500mA (peak)

• Dimensions: 43.75 x 18.5 x 1mm
• Weight: 2.6g

Motor control Pins:

• Motor 2:  D5, D9 (labelled on PCB as M2, but is M0 to be consistent with 4duino Uno Pro)
• Motor 1:  D6, D10
• The + and – pins on the opposite side from the Motor pins are what is used to power the motors. You need to wire these to your board power input or raw 5V or whatever if you need to power the motors.

 

Santa16 – A robotic advent calendar for December 2016

During the first 24 days of December you will get a part each day to help you assemble the robot. Things will start happening about half-way through, but the final part on 24th December is worth waiting for as it will unlock the power of the robot!

The following links provide you with the instructions you need to assemble and use the robot.

Happy Christmas!

• Day 1
• Day 2
• Day 3
• Day 4
• Day 5
• Day 6
• Day 7
• Day 8
• Day 9
• Day 10
• Day 11
• Day 12
• Day 13
• Day 14
• Day 15
• Day 16
• Day 17
• Day 18
• Day 19
• Day 20
• Day 21
• Day 22
• Day 23
• Day 24

 

Overview

Picobot 2 is an all-new design, but recognisably similar to the original Picobot. Here are some of the key hardware differences:

• Acrylic case for all models
• Built-in LIPO battery and smart charger
• USB interface for programming and charging
• Supports Bluetooth Smart (Bluetooth Low Energy, BLE)
• Supports Wifi using ESP8266 (NB. choice of Wifi or Bluetooth is a build-time option. One or the other, but not both)
• Improved internal power supplies, keeps the ultrasonic sensor running even with low battery levels
• Improved line follower and light sensors
• Fully RoHS compliant

 

Links

• Purchase
• Assembling
• Pinout PDF
• CH340 Drivers for Windows, Mac and Linux (Windows 7 and later will find them automatically – but may take several minutes to do so)
• GitHub repository with latest library and example code

 

Child-Friendly Assembly

It is *Really* simple to assemble the Picobot2. All you need is a small cross-head screwdriver and a few minutes.

Above shows all the parts that you receive in the box. Clockwise from top left:

1. Picobot2 PCBA ready-assembled with motors
2. LIPO battery (with protection circuitry)
3. Wheels
4. Screws and nuts
5. Acrylic case (5 layers)

Visit this link to see the detailed assembly instructions

 

First Steps

When the Picobot2 is delivered, it contains 5 programs that you can access using the Mode button

1. Flashes the LEDs rapidly

2. Line Follower. Stick black insulation tape down and it should follow it (depends how reflective the surface it is on – fine on wooden floors!)

3. Light Follower. Follows a torch shining on it, but not very well at the moment

4. Obstacle avoider. When comes close to something, it reverses and turns around then moves off again

5. Person follower. Tries to stay at 10cm from an object. I need to slow down the movements as it is too jerky at present and goes off line.

The Mode button (right side, front) changes between these programs. When you press the button it will move onto the next one and flash the Blue LED the right number of times (ie. it will flash 3 times before running the light follower). The obstacle avoider program in particular doesn’t listen to the button very often, so you may have to hold it down for a couple of seconds before it reacts.

 

Know Your Picobot2

This image is from an earlier prototype, but gives the general picture – most of the electronics is on the underneath. The light sensors are on top at the front corners

 

Bluetooth Connection

The Bluetooth is a direct pass-through, with a small set of AT commands. So don’t start a packet with AT or it will be interpreted as a command. In the Arduino code you can open the software serial connection at 9600 baud, then read or write from it directly.

#include <SoftwareSerial.h>

SoftwareSerial BLE (2, 3); // RX, TX

  BLE.begin (9600);

BLE.println (“Hello world”);

 The AT commands are listed here

iOS (8 or later):  Use LightBlue app from the AppStore to find and listen or send data to the Picobot2: Tutorial

Android: Use the WIreless-Tag agg referred to in page 14 of the Bluetooth module specification here

 

ESP8266 Connection

There is an ESP-12E module used for WiFi and it is controlled via the Software Serial interface using AT commands.

With these AT commands you can connect to an existing WiFI network, create your own access point, or both. You can easily create a web server so that anyone with a WiFi enabled smartphone or PC can attach to your Picobot2 and control it, or simply receive updates about the sensors and what the Picobot2 is doing. It’s entirely up to you.

The AT commands are listed here

 

Latest Status

21st December: Released: Purchase here

• Picobot2 is now released
• Production capability is very limited at around 10 units per day, so if you order several there may be a delay before they are shipped
• The second batch should be factory-produced and thus shipment in quantity will be possible
• Once factory production is established, Picobot2 will be released to distributors

 

16th December: Released for pre-Order – Purchase here

• PCBs have arrived as planned – Good News! They work 🙂
• I thought when testing that there was a hardware problem, but after a lot of investigation, it turned out to be a problem with the new Arduino Picobot2 library code
• This has delayed full testing, so there are things still to test such as Bluetooth, WiFI, voltage regulation, etc, but all is looking good so far
• Now it is time to start planning the shipping roll-out. We’ve sold more than was expected so it is likely that later orders may not ship until the new year
• We close for new orders on Monday 21st December, but will still ship outstanding paid for orders on 22nd December. After that we won’t be around
• So if all goes to plan we will be able to ship the first order on 17th December. Other orders will follow in the order they were placed

 

13th December: Released for pre-Order – Purchase here

• We now have the stencil which will enable solder pasting on the blank PCBs when they arrive
• We also have the cases, with the 4tronix and Picobo2 logos etched into the top layer
• PCBs have been manufactured and are on the way from China
• PCBs expected on 16th December and should be tested and confirmed working the same day (cross all fingers, toes and any other appendages you have!)
• So if all goes to plan we will be able to ship the first order on 17th December. Other orders will follow in the order they were placed

Metal foil solder stencil

 

New top layer with logo etching

 

3rd December: Released for pre-Order – Purchase here

• For now, we have left off the new accelerometer because, to really be useful, it needs a lot more software support
• Retail pricing (without Bluetooth or Wifi) is £36.00 + VAT
• First production PCBs and cases have been ordered today
• Arduino library code is being tidied up and documented fully
• Still to do: Document use with Snap for Arduino and Blockly

 

19th November: The (hopefully) Final prototype PCBs due in today. To do:

• Assemble and test the final prototypes
• Decide which components to leave in or out (mainly, do we need the accelerometer?)
• Work out final product cost and set distributor and retail pricing
• Purchase the first small batch (100 units) of PCBs, cases and any other components we’re running short of
• Keep working on software demos and libraries
• Release for pre-order on our web-site

 

Assembling Picobot 2

Picobot2 has been designed to be easily assembled by children armed only with a small screwdriver. As long as you are gentle with the acrylic layers there should be no problems in assembly.

If you find an acrylic layer is not fitting properly then either you have the wrong layer, or (layer 2 only) it is upside down.

Click on any photo to enlarge.

 

Step 1 – Check you have all the parts

You should have (clockwise from top left):

• Picobot mainboard with ultrasonic and motors attached. Optionally, you may have a Bluetooth module (shown above) or an ESP8266 WiFi module
• LiPo battery (includes protection circuit and JST 2-pin 2mm connector)
• 2 wheels (Yellow or Lilac)
• 4 screws (M2.5, 22mm) and 4 nuts (M2.5)
• Layer 5 (top) acrylic. 2mm thick
• Layer 4 acrylic, 5mm
• Layer 3 acrylic, 5mm
• Layer 2 acrylic, 3mm (sits on component side of PCB)
• Layer 1 acrylic, 3mm (Bottom – with front glider attached)

 

Step 2 – Place Layer 2 onto the PCB

Note that this layer only goes one way round as it weaves in and out of the components on the PCB.

This layer is quite fragile until it is assembled, do not bend it!

 

Step 3 – Place Layer 1 onto Layer 2

Layer contains the hemi-spherical glider, which acts as the front caster for the Picobot2

 

Step 4 – Turn over and Place Layer 3 Between the Motors

Layer 3 and Layer 4 are quite similar and both are 5mm thick. Layer 3 has a small cutout at the centre front where the ultrasonic module is mounted.

 

Step 5 – Add Layer 4 above Layer 3

This also fits between the motors and the top of this layer should be flush with the top of the motors

 

Step 5 – Plug in the Battery

Plug in the battery onto the main PCB then position it carefully into its cavity making sure that the antenna end (left side) of the Bluetooth or ESP8266 module is not covered by the battery

 

Step 6 – Add the Top Layer (Layer 5)

This top layer holds in the battery and the motors

 

Step 7 – Screw it all together

Do up all 4 screws. with the screw head at the top and the nut underneath the Picobot2. They don’t need to be done up very tightly, just tightening by hand is sufficient

 

Step 8 – Finally, push the wheel on

Put each wheel flat on the table and push the axle through the wheel until it is stopped by the table. The axle end should be flush with the outside of the wheel

 

You now have a fully functional (optionally WiFi or Bluetooth enabled) mini robot to program away with!

Picobot – Low-Cost Open-Source Robot for Education and Fun!

For little more than the cost of an Arduino Uno, you can buy a compatible product that works directly with the Arduino IDE and has built in motors, sensors and LEDs. You can add to this with plug-in modules for ultrasonic distance measurement and 2.4GHz wireless connectivity

Buy it here

Dimensions:
PCB 50 x 50mm
With wheels, width is 80mm
Including ultrasonic and rear LED, length is 75mm
Height without ultrasonic is diameter of wheels (42mm)
Height with Ultrasonic is 48mm

The circuit schematic and example code is Open Source and available for anyone to make their own. Licensed under Creative Commons BY-SA
The design files and basic program examples are on the 4tronix GitHub
The library and 3D printable case are from Martin Bateman

Also available as a Starter Pack with 2 Picobots, programming cable and batteries

Save even more by purchasing a Class Pack of 6 or more

Some example activities:
Without RF Connectivity:

• Line following
• Obstacle avoidance
• Light seeking
• Light avoiding
• Colour reaction to environment Light vs Distance, Colour vs Light received, etc
• Follow my leader (pulse the rear LED and get second Picobot to follow a pulsing white light)
• Stay fixed distance from object/person – eg. get it to follow you around

With RF Connectivity:

• Synchronise colours
• Dance in sync
• All follow the command of a leader
• Send commands or data from a Raspberry Pi or PC
• Classic swarming behaviour: react to alarms, searching, clustering, identifying

Video of Picobots preparing to follow each other

Base Model Comprises:

• Ready assembled – just push on the wheels and screw in the front caster assembly
• Arduino compatible ATMega328P-AU (with 2 additional analog inputs)
• 2 x N20 geared motors with “biscuit” 42mm diameter wheels
• 2 forward facing light sensors
• 2 line sensors
• 2 paired RGB LEDs underneath for mood lighting and status information depending how you want to program them – they both show the same colour, not independent
• Rear facing bright white LED – useful for “follow my leader”
• Mode selection button – general purpose input button that you can program yourself
• On – Off switch
• Reset button
• Socket for ultrasonic distance sensor HC-SR04
• Socket of 2.4GHz RF module – nRF24L01 or compatible
• Socket for programming (requires a USB to serial converter such as a CP2102 module with DTR, must be pin for pin compatible with the one 4tronix sell)
• NB. Basic model does not include battery or battery holder as you can use any LiPo or LiOn battery or battery holder with 2-pin JST plug (check the polarity)

Available Upgrades and Options:

• Ultrasonic distance sensor HC-SR04
• Programming module and USB cable (CP2102 USB to Serial converter)
• 2.4GHz transceiver nRF24L01 or compatible (NB. this is not Bluetooth and a similar transceiver is required to connect to other devices)
• 3-Cell AA battery holder
• Lithium Ion battery (similar to PS3 controller batteries, but polarity is reversed)
• Lithium polymer battery (various capacities)

Gallery

Some early Info About the Picobot Robotics Project

 

I’ve been working on and off for a while on a small robot because:

1. I want to make available a really cheap programmable robot for schools
2. I would like to make one that can communicate with other robots, detect them and interact with them
3. If they can be made cheaply enough then making a swarm of 10 or more becomes feasible

 

This version of Picobot (V2) contains a small number of sensors as well as a connector for an NRF24L01 2.4GHz RF module. This is stupidly cheap RF module with a reasonable range and excellent support in the Arduino community.

• Dimensions of PCB 50 x 50mm
• Motors: 2 x N20 size with 70:1 reduction gears
• Wheels: 42mm diameter
• Front ball caster
• ATmel ATMega328P -PU(DIP) controller chip with Arduino bootloader
• Interface to CP2102 USB-serial converter (with auto-reset). Only one converter required for all your bots, no need to waste money (and board space) having one for each
• Plug in socket for HC-SR04 ultrasonic distance sensor
• 2 x LDR for light level sensors
• Reset switch
• Mode select switch (use in your programs how you like)
• Micro-USB for power only – will work from 3.7V to 5.5V
• On-Off switch

 

Next Revision is V3 – Updated Info

V3 adds the following – keeping the PCB the same size

• TQFP package for the ATMega328P-AU (smaller, surface mount)
• 2 x IR line follower sensors
• 2 x RGB LEDs underneath at front
• Rear bright white LED, used for follow-the-leader swarming
• Change to use of 2-pin JST connector for direct powering from 3.7V Lipo battery
• New, thinner 47mm diameter wheels