Software for Agobo

Python

You can download the latest python software: as a RAR file, or from GitHub

Alternatively, you can use the following commands from your Raspberry Pi in the home folder. (open LXTerminal from desktop):

• wget http://4tronix.co.uk/agobo.sh -O agobo.sh
• bash agobo.sh

 

Files included

• agobo.py This is the python library module, see the first few lines of the library for listing of all the exposed functions for controlling motors, LEDs and reading sensors
• motorTest2.py – use the arrow keys on your keyboard to control the direction and speed of the motors
• irTest.py – check the state of the IR line sensors
• sonarTest.py – print the distance using the UltraSonic sensor
• ledTest.py – flashes the white LEDs on Agobo. NOTE: This does not operate the neopixels on Agobo2, see the note below
• switchTest.py – shows the state of the mode switch once per second
• neopixel.py and strandtest.py – produce pretty patterns on the neopixel attached to PlusPlate and any extended ones see Adafruit’s blog for info

 

Setting up Agobo2 Neopixels

Before you can use the neopixels on Agobo2, you will need to install the necessary drivers. This is the same operation as for the PlayHAT, so let’s use the instructions for that. You can always move the files over to your Agobo folder afterwards

Ensure your Raspberry Pi is connected to the internet

$ sudo apt-get install git$ git clone https://github.com/4tronix/PlayHAT
$ cd ~/PlayHAT
$ sudo apt-get install python-pip python-dev
$ sudo python setup.py install

Now you can run the strandtest.py demo as follows:
$ sudo python strandtest.py

Specification

• Designed for Raspberry Pi Model A+ (Can also fit B+ and 2B using optional mountings)
• Pre-assembled. Only requires front caster, battery holder and Pi to be screwed on and then push the wheels on.
• Raspberry Pi plugs directly onto the main PCB
• Two N20 size metal geared motors fully and individually controllable in software
• Built in line-follower sensors with indicator LEDs
• Separately controllable front LEDs left and right (on Agobo2 these are fully addressable RGB neopixels)
• Power on/off switch and LED
• Connector for optional plug-in ultrasonic distance sensor
• Breakout header for a standard serial console cable (ideal way to program a headless Model A+)
• Breakout I²C header for our IP Display dongle
• Prototyping area to add your own sensors
• Fully replicated 40-pin GPIO header so you can attach your own addons
• Additional mounting holes to attach sensors or extra hardware

 

Optional Extras

• Ultrasonic sensors (HC-SR04) which simply plugs into the connector at the front
• Acrylic cover with mounting hardware to cover and protect the Raspberry Pi Model A+ (included as standard in Agobo2)
• PlusPlate™ Additional prototyping board and mounting hardware. This allows a full size area to add your own electronics from a simple LED, to more complex items including integrated circuits, RF modules and neopixels. See separate specification. The board comes complete with single, ready-wired, neoPixel with interface to extend to many, and a position for nRF24L01 socket
• Serial console cable which allows easy access to the Raspberry Pi command line without any setup required
• Super short micro USB cable to tidy up the battery connection
• Pre-loaded SD card with the latest Raspbian software and Agobo software (Python and Scratch)
• Wifi dongle
• Additional mounting accessories to enable mounting the Raspberry Pi B+ or Raspberry Pi 2 Model B

 

Software

• A Python library module and examples can be downloaded directly onto the A+ (if it has an internet connection) or transferred via USB stick or console cable
• ScratchGPIO supports Agobo as an Addon board type from release 6.xxx (TBD)

 

Links

• Purchase Agobo (opens in separate window)
• Walk through the Agobo features
• Assembly Instructions
• Software downloads
• Pre-release blog post (for interest only, specifications have changed)

 

Agobo with Ultrasonic sensor, WiFi dongle and short USB cable added to standard build

(Agobo2 has the Raspberry Pi turned 90 degrees so that fitting the B+ and 2B is possible)

Agobo – The Hackable Pre-Built Robot for the Raspberry Pi A+

Base Build

1. Pre-Built PCB with the following items pre-installed and ready to use
2. 2 x Metal geared Motors
   1. Left motor on physical GPIO pins 19 and 21
   2. Right motor on physical pins 24 and 26
3. Two InfraRed IR line sensors
   1. Left on physical pin 7 with Red indicator LED
   2. Right on physical pin 11 with Green indicator LED
4. Two White LEDs at the front (Agobo v1 only. On Agobo2 these are replaced by full addressable RGB neopixels)
   1. Left on physical pin 15
   2. Right on physical pin 13
5. Mode switch – or whatever you want to use it for on physical GPIO pin 16
6. Ultrasonic uses physical pin 23 for BOTH Ping and Echo. Swapping the direction of this pin is handled within the python library and ScratchGPIO
7. I2C pins broken out to 6-pin connector with 5v, 3.3V and Ground
8. Serial pins connected to a convenient 4-pin male connector so serial console cables plug right in (includes power and ground)
9. Fully replicated 40-pin GPIO connector and prototyping area with 5v, Ground and 3.3V strips for you to add your own sensors, LEDs, or whatever
10. All other pins free to do what you want

 

PlusPlate

1. Lots more prototyping area
2. Designed so ICs can fit in 4 different rows with easy access to 5V, Ground and 3V distribution lines
3. A great way of adding any sort of electronics
4. Use the Acrylic cover to safely protect your designs
5. Physical GPIO pin 12 is brought to a pre-fitted neopixel which is directly controllable in python (and ScratchGPOIO??)
6. Both the input and the output to the neopixel is brought to an expansion header so your pre-fitted pxiel can be in parallel with or in addition to the first pixel in your strip or ring of pixels
7. All unassigned GPIO pins (as well as 5V, 3.3V and Ground) brought to a separate row of accessible pads
8. A position for a standard nRF24L01+ module using SPI connections
9. With the PlusPlate™, the Agobo becomes infinitely hackable!

 

 Click on any image below to enlarge

*Note. Images still show the Agobo v1 build. Agobo2 is similar but rotated 90 degrees.

Basic Build

1. Check you have all the parts:

• Agobo ready built main board
• 2 rear wheels
• Front caster bag containing read-assembled caster
• Acrylic cover with “Agobo2” etched on
• Battery holder clip
• 16mm countersunk screw
• M3 nut
• 4 x 11 mm female-female pillars
• 8 x 6mm screws
• Battery with connector/charge cable
• 4 male-female pillars (5mm)
• 4 nylon washers

 

2. Fit the Front Caster

For Agobo2 this has already been done for you, so skip to Step 3

This is a fiddly task, but it is the only one. Once it is done, the rest is easy

Put the main ball in the housing, and the small balls into the “corners” as shown above

 

Put on the cover plate and hold it all together with your fingers, as you place it on the PCB

 

Then use the small (10mm) screws to fix it to the PCB.

That wasn’t so hard, right? (NB. If using the PlusPlate™, or wiring onto the replicated header pads, you will need to use the 3mm spacers and the longer screws – this is a much trickier operation)

 

3. Fit the Battery Holder

For Agobo2, the battery holder is fitted to the Acrylic plate, so skip to step 4

You will need the 5mm small acrylic plate, 20mm countersunk screw, M3 nut and the battery clip

 

Remove the backing plastic from the acrylic plate – it should be bright and transparent

Push the screw through from the top of the battery clip, through the acrylic plate, through the PCB and tighten the M3 nut underneath

 

4. Add the Mounting Pillars for the Pi

You will need the 4 female-female pillars (11mm) and the 8 screws (M2.5, 6mm)

 

Screw the 4 pillars into the PCB in the positions shown

 

5. Fitting the Acrylic Plate

 

6. Add the pillars

Screw the 5mm male-female pillars in to the 11mm pillars that hold the Raspberry Pi A+

 

3. Fit the Acrylic Cover

• Peel off the protective covering from the acrylic plate (now it is nice and shiny!)
• Screw the battery clip to the offset hole in the acrylic using the 16mm screws and M3 nut (the 5mm spacer acrylic piece is not required)
• Now use the 6mm screws with the nylon washers to hold the acrylic cover to the small pillars
• All done!

 

—–

Using with the PlusPlate

1. Check you have all the parts

To attach the PlusPlate you will have to do some light soldering.

First, fit the 2x20pin male headers to the main board as shown above

 

2. Re-Attach the Front Caster with spacers

Note: This is really tricky – take it carefully and patiently. There is a knack to doing it, which is described below, but it takes a few attempts before you can do it quickly.

You will need the longer screws and the 3mm spacers found in the bag with the front caster.

• Prepare the front caster as before and hold in one hand
• Hold the main PCB vertical (ie. resting on the back end (USB connector end)
• Put one long screw through the hole in the PCB
• Put a spacer over the screw so that it rests on it – remember, the screw is horizontal at this point. Gravity is your friend.
• Screw into the caster assembly with the other hole of the caster upwards(careful, though as it is easy to over-tighten)
• Now turn the caster into the correct position, and push the other spacer into position
• Then, screw the second screw in.
• Now, you can have a cup of coffee, or glass of wine, or whatever. You deserve it!

 

3. Add the Mounting Pillars

Use the 4 Male-Female 11mm pillars and screw each on in, holding the Pi in place

 

4. Prepare the PlusPlate

Solder the 40-way female header to the bottom of the PlusPlate

Push in the 40-way extended header

 

5. Connect the PlusPlate and Battery

Push the PlusPlate with extended headers into the male headers that you soldered onto the main PCB

 

Fix the PlusPlate with the 6mm screws (from the base build)

Add the battery clip to the PlusPlate using the 12mm countersunk screw

 

Fit the battery and off you go!

 

You can also add the Acrylic cover with the PlusPlate

Use the 5mm Male-Female pillars and mount the acrylic cover with the overhang at the front

Leave the battery clip fitted to the PlusPlate to reduce the overall height.

 

AGoBo is the winning name – Suggested by @mcambelluni

Mark will receive a complete AGoBo prototype, as well as the next iteration of the main PCBA.

 

Starting 29th November 2014 and finishing 1st December, we are running a Twitter based competition to choose a product name for this new robot, codenamed APB01

 

The winner will receive a complete prototype robot, including the Model A+ and we will ship it worldwide.

 

 

Specification

This is a prototype robot at the moment, and we expect the specification to change before we start selling it in January. Current specs as follows:

• Supports Raspberry Pi Model A+ only
• Size 100 x 80 25mm (excluding wheels)
• Built-in power supply that works from 6.6V to 12V quite happily, supplying power to both the robot and the Pi
• Serial connections (for SSH console cable) brought to convenient connector on the edge
• Standard 4tronix 6-pin I2C breakout connector – direct fit for the IP Display module we make
• 2 x line follower sensors with indicator LEDs
• Ultrasonic distance sensor
• N20 size, metal geared motors
• 42mm wheels
• Provided ready soldered. Just screw in your Pi and add batteries.

It really is as easy as Pi to get going in robotics now.

Competition entries (in order of appearance)

1. mA+rvin – @MarkSwashplate
2. Colin – @newsliner
3. Pi2Go Nano – @monkeymademe
4. Pi2Go mini – @monkeymademe
5. Eric – @Mruktechreviews
6. Ratbot (rA+bot) – @monkeymademe
7. picabot – @TommyBobbins
8. nitbit – @monkeymademe
9. berryBot – @monkeymademe
10. HatBot (hA+bot) – @monkeymademe
11. DiddyTron – @AverageManvsPi
12. DiddyBot – @AverageManvsPi
13. A+ PiBot nano – @BitSkils
14. The Crumb – @AverageManvsPi
15. The Mighty Maus – @heeedt
16. PiBotA+ – @skinnermartin78
17. GoA+Bot (GoAtBot) – @skinnermartin78
18. NanoGo – @skinnermartin78
19. Johnny – @Ascii211
20. MadgeBot – @ukscone
21. BiBot – @JarrowComputing
22. DinkyBot – @skinnermartin78
23. MidiBot – @skinnermartin78
24. +SonicBot – @CoderDojoCarm
25. BotAplus – @treefrog52
26. BotAppi (BotA+Pi) – @AndyBateyPi
27. A4 – @sej7278
28. A Robot – @sej7278
29. PiBot – @TeCoEd
30. Alfie – @richard007_1999
31. AtBot (A+Bot) – @uk_baz
32. Flat Stanley – @uk_baz
33. 4tA+v1 – @uk_baz
34. HalfPint – @skinnermartin78
35. Swarmer – @zosho
36. NA+Bot (NatBot) – @skinnermartin78
37. Pip – @skinnermartin78
38. BitBot – @skinnermartin78
39. DotBot – @skinnermartin78
40. A+Go – @skinnermartin78
41. A+GoBot – @skinnermartin78
42. Rudolph – @CoderDojoCarm
43. RaspAπbot – @skinnermartin78
44. JittyBot – @JarJarGeek
45. Pi-onic – @red_dragon25
46. PocketBot, PocA+Bot – @skinnermartin78
47. PiAbot – @RobertsDavidJ
48. PiAtron – @RobertsDavidJ
49. PintBot – @recantha
50. AGOBO – @mcampbelluni
51. PiAGoGo – @mcampbelluni
52. KinderBot – @APChristie
53. SchoolieBot – @APChristie
54. IKnowBot – @APChristie
55. DeBug – @RobertsDavidJ
56. aRobot – @Stimmli
57. rA+pless (ripless) – @MBDilaver
58. PiPlusBot – @Cloud4Schools
59. RoboPip – @StefanPlum
60. piDestroyer – @evgeniyraev
61. pupPi- @evgeniyraev
62. HAL 1- @evgeniyraev
63. a1- @evgeniyraev
64. Dalek- @evgeniyraev
65. BugPi – @skeletony
66. BuggyPi – @skeletony
67. PiAGo – @skinnermartin78
68. PiAGoBot – @skinnermartin78
69. FrogBot – @AndyBateyPi
70. PiFrogBot – @AndyBateyPi
71. Piccolo – @ukscone
72. amphipian – @AndyBateyP
73. ampibot – @AndyBateyP
74. apphibian – @AndyBateyP
75. appibian – @AndyBateyP
76. MidiBot – @skinnermartin78
77. MidiTron – @skinnermartin78
78. Medius – @skinnermartin78
79. 4tronix build BotAplus – @treefrog52

 

Finalists (in Order)

1. AGOBO – @mcampbelluni WINNER
2. Piccolo – @ukscone
3. NanoGo – @skinnermartin78
4. mA+rvin – @MarkSwashplate
5. Pi-onic – @red_dragon25
6. BotAppi (BotA+Pi) – @AndyBateyPi
7. HatBot (hA+bot) – @monkeymademe
8. BotAplus – @treefrog52

 

 

UltraSonic & LED PCB Kit

This kit makes it easy to mount a standard SR-HC04 ultrasonic sensor on the front of a robot. The sensor itself is soldered to the PCB which acts as a carrier, additionally having M3 mounting holes at various spacings.

The board also carries 4 LEDs with the necessary series resistors to be driven directly from Arduino or Raspberry Pi GPIO pins.

Click any image to enlarge.

 

1. Check you have all the parts

The kit contains:

• 1 x PCB
• 1x UltraSonic sensor
• 1 x Resistor pack (4 x 220R resistors in a SIL package)
• 2 x White LEDs
• 1 x Blue LED
• 1 x Green LED
• 2 x 4-pin male headers

 

2. Solder the LEDs

It doesn’t really matter where you put each LED, but the standard way for our Pizazz robot is as shown above.

NB. Ensure that the longer lead (positive) from each LED is soldered into the holes marked with a ‘+’ sign (towards the top of the board in the photo above)

 

3. Solder the Resistor Pack

The resistor pack must be placed the correct way round, with the white dot next to the ‘1’ marked on the PCB. The writing is therefore point towards the ultrasonic mounting points as shown in the photo above.

 

4. Solder the 4-pin Male Headers

These should be mounted in the positions either side of the resistor pack. To get the straight, I find it easiest to solder just one pin of each header, then holding the board and header in one hand and the soldering iron in the other, gently melt the solder and move the header so it is straight. There’s a bit of a knack to this 😉

 

5. Finally, Solder on the UltraSonic Sensor

This should be mounted on the same side as all the other components. You can double check, by checking that the writing on the front of the sensors, matches the pins on the 4-pin header next to it. (ie. VCC is next to VCC, Trig is next to Trig, etc)

Again, solder one pin first then straighten it out using the same method as for the headers.

 

6. The Completed Board – Ready for Mounting on your Robot

 

Introducing Pirocon 2

The “Gold standard” robotics controller for the Pi just got better!

As of this week (October 14th 2014), we are shipping version 2.0 of the Pirocon controller board. This has many changes from the previous v1.x versions.

Quick summary of changes:

• No changes to pinout or functionality – all existing software will continue to operate without change
• Board shape fits all models of Raspberry Pi including Model B+
• All active components now surface mount
• Big 3A regulator for the 5V supply of both the Raspberry Pi and sensors/servos
• Fully CE certified and RoHS compliant
• More energy efficient – batteries last longer
• Improved 3.3V-5V level shifters

 

Pirocon2 Functional Layout

Clockwise from top left:

1. Level shift selectors. Remove these jumpers if you want to use an input at 3.3V. Then you can connect directly the GPIO pin using the topmost pin freed by removing the jumper.
2. Level shifted 3-pin block. A header with 8 sets of 3-pin connectors for 5V inputs or outputs. Note that Ground (0V) is furthest from the GPIO connector – this is opposite side to the Pirocon v1.x boards. From the top, each group of three is: Signal, 5V, Gnd
3. The 2-pin screw terminal for connecting motor A
4. A 4-pin terminal for directly connecting a 4-pin ultrasonic sensor – HC-SR04. This is converted on the Pirocon board to a single (selectable) pin into the GPIO
5. The 2-pin screw terminal for connecting motor B
6. Red indicator LED for 5V
7. Orange indicator LED for 3.3V
8. Selection jumper for GPIO pin to be used for ultrasonic. Default position is pin 8, but pin 23 can also be selected by moving the jumper to the left
9. An 8-pin female header containing the SPI and voltage (5V, 3.3V, Gnd) signals
10. This chip is the H-Bridge used to control the motors. It is an L293DD
11. The 6-pin female header allows you to connect a 4tronix IP Display module or an Adafruit 16-channel PWM board (Adafruit model 815) for controlling multiple servos or LEDs. There are 2 of these headers (left and right) but they contain all the same signals so only one needs to be used, but is is more physically robust if the PWM board is plugged into both sockets.
12. Selection jumper for motor voltage input. The voltage to drive the motors can be taken either directly from the DC jack input (which is used to generate the 5V for the Raspberry Pi), or from the 2-pin screw terminal on the lower edge of the Pirocon board. For most purposes, you will want this jumper to be on the right (nearest the edge of the board)
13. The 2-pin screw terminal for an alternative motor power source. Note that this terminal does not power the 5V regulator so cannot be the only source of power
14. A bank of 4 solder jumpers that connect the motor control pins to the selected GPIO pins. By default these are MISO, MOSI, CE0 and CE1. To change them, you should cut the tiny track between the two halves of the relevant jumper, then connect to the pin you want to use. This option is provided for flexibility, but most people will not need to change it
15. These two jumpers permanently enable each motor driver. From a purest point of view, it is better to use these enable pins to provide the PWM signal to each motor and only use the motor control pins to determine the direction. However, in most circumstances it makes very little difference, so all the library software assumes 4-wire control and not 6-wire control. Leaving these jumpers in place ensures each motor is always enabled.
16. Input DC jack for the regulator (and generally also for the motors). This is a 2.1mm pin jack, with centre positive. The voltage should be between 7V and 12V DC. Lower than 7V and the regulation may not be sufficient. Above 12V then the regulator may begin to overheat
17. The left side connect for Adafruit’s PWM board – see item 11
18. I2C and Serial (Rx, Tx) breakout female header
19. Bi-directional level shifter chip. This converts the 5V signals to/from the 8×3 male header block into 3.3V signals for the Raspberry Pi

 

Software Support

• In ScratchGPIO, use the addon name “PiroconB”. Download from here
• For Python, use the standard Initio/Pirocon library available here. Although designed specifically for the Initio robot chassis, it will work unchanged for most robots with 2 drive motors

 

Errata

• Pins 15 & 16 (Broadcom GPIOs 22 and 23) are swapped from what is shown on the silk screen
• Pin 11 is shown as GPIO 07 on the jumper bank, instead of GPIO 17

 

Wiring the Unotron with Raspberry Pi and Microcon 3

Click on any image to enlarge.

 

For the basic mechanical building instructions, please refer to here

 

Step 1 – Fit the Mounting Pillars

For the Model B+ you should place 4 of the 25mm pillars in the positions shown above. (Note that the one bottom-right in above picture will need the screw removing later to allow the motor to sit properly on the baseplate)

For Models A or B only 2 pillars are required in the positions shown with red ring.

 

Step 2 – Fit the Raspberry Pi

After screwing in all 4 pillars for the B+, then remove the screw underneath the bottom right-hand pillar so it sites on the baseplate but isn’t screwed in.

Also, note the rubber bumper on the bottom of the mounting pillar of the Microcon v3. This rubber bumper rests onto the PCB of all models (For the Model A and B, you can removed the rubber bumper so the Microcon sits flat with its pillar on top of the mounting screw)

 

Step 3 – Push On the Microcon v3

Make sure it is connect correctly to the end of the GPIO connector. For the B+ there will be 14 pins left exposed. For Models A and B, all pins will be covered.

 

Step 4 – Connect The Motor

Screw in the motor (see instructions for base build here, steps 1 to 7

Depending on the wiring to the motor, you may need to swap the wires so that the software moves forwards and not backwards when required. Check this when first testing the software

 

Step 5 – Connect the Servo Lead

Plug the servo lead into the position shown (marked 22 on the PCB). Make sure you have this the correct way round with the Black wire next to Gnd, Red wire on 5V and White wire on Sig(nal)

 

Step 6 – Plug in the Ultrasonic Sensor

Plug the sensor into the breadboard – approximately centred left to right, but it is not critical

Then connect 4 of the 30cm Male-Female wires, ensuring you plug into the same 4 columns of the breadboard as the sensor is in

 

Step 7 – Wire the Ultrasonic Sensor to Microcon

Ensure that the wires match the signal names printed on the sensor and the PCB. So:

• Gnd -> Gnd
• Echo -> Echo
• Trig (or Ping) -> Ping
• Vcc -> 5V

 

Step 8 – Wire in the Line Follower Sensors

Again it is important that the voltage is the correct way round. Connect:

• G -> Gnd
• V+ -> +5V
• S -> Sig

The Left sensor should be plugged into the 3 pins labelled 07

The Right sensor into pins labelled 11

 

Step 9 – Wire in the Battery Pack

Very Important: The positive (Red wire) goes into the terminal marked Vin, and the negative (Black wire) into the terminal marked Gnd. If you get these the wrong way round, you will damage the driver chip.

 

Testing & Software

You have now completed the wiring of the Microcon onto the Unotron single-wheek robot. Please download the sample code to test it, remembering that you may need to swap the motor wires so forwards is forwards and not backwards. With the Pi powered up and connected to the internet, go into a terminal window (eg LXTerminal) or from the startup terminal if that’s how you run your Pi, then type (or copy and paste):

wget http://4tronix.co.uk/unotron.sh -O unotron.sh

When that is complete, type:

bash unotron.sh

Now you will have a new folder /home/pi/unotron with a library module and examples to try. Eg:

sudo python motorTest.py