Pi2Go Mk 2 Home Page



The Pi2Go Mk2 is the evolution of the very popular original Pi2Go, first shipped in April 2015. The major changes are:

  • Improved assembly method, particularly the motor mounts
  • No wires for attaching the battery packs
  • Better quality wheels with high grip tyres
  • Wheel sensors built into both wheels
  • Programmatic access to the raw battery voltage
  • Improved analog light sensors – one in each corner
  • 10 individually addressable Smart RGB LEDs
  • 2 edge connectors compatible with Pimoroni’s Breakout Garden with full access to I2C signals and individual GPIO signals
  • Improved motor controller allowing higher speeds and optional braking on stop
  • Now with 4WD option



  • Requires 6 x AA rechargeable battery cells (not included)
  • Supports all versions of 40-pin Raspberry Pi
    (NB. the Raspberry Pi 4 consumes a lot of power and it is recommended to use one of the optional 7 x AA, or 2 x 18650 battery boards)
  • Motor controller: DRV8833
  • Analog input (light sensors and battery) MCP3008
  • Switching 5V power supply using TPS5430
  • 10 x SK6812-3535 Smart RGB LEDs (compatible with neopixels) – on battery board
  • On/Off switch with Blue indicator LED – on battery board
  • 2 x TCRT5000 infra-red obstacle sensors (front corners)
  • 4 x SFH3710 light sensors (all 4 corners)
  • 2 x TCRT5000 infra-red line follower sensors
  • 6mm tact switch for programmatic use
  • 4 x servo connections – direct from GPIO pins, with 5V and Gnd signals
  • 2 x optical wheel sensors with 20 slot encoder wheels (ie. 20 pulses per revolution)
  • 2 slots for breakout boards, including ultrasonic distance sensor and IP Display. These slots are compatible with Pimoroni’s Breakout Garden range.
  • Overall size with wheels attached: 148 x 118 x 98mm (length x width x height)
  • Weight (excluding Raspberry Pi & batteries): 282g


GPIO Connections

(Broadcom numbering)

  • Left Motor: 26, 19
  • Right Motor: 21, 16
  • Smart RGB LEDs: 18
  • Left Obstacle Sensor: 22
  • Right Obstacle Sensor: 17
  • Left Line Sensor: 23
  • Right Line Sensor: 27
  • Front ultrasonic (or general I/O): 20
  • Side ultrasonic (or general I/O): 4
  • Tact switch: 15
  • Left wheel sensor: 5
  • Right wheel sensor: 6
  • Servos: 12, 13, 24, 25



MiniBit Entry-Level Robot for Microbit

Purchase here


MiniBit is a ready-assembled simple and inexpensive robot for the BBC micro:bit.

It has the following features:

  • Ready-assembled. Just push on the wheels
  • Edge connector to easily insert the Microbit
  • Micro metal gear motors with fully-enclosed gearbox (no grit or fluff can enter)
  • Wire-free battery holder for 3 x AA batteries
  • 4 x Smart RGB LEDs (neopixel compatible)
  • Integrated Pen holder for 10mm diameter pens (eg. Sharpie felt tips)
  • Robust On/Off switch with Blue indicator LED
  • Wide chunky wheels with lots of grip
  • Metal ball front caster
  • Connector for optional ultrasonic sensor or I2C breakouts (fully compatible with Pimoroni’s Breakout Garden range)
  • The Microbit pins 0, 1, 2, Gnd and 3V are available for use with croc clips etc.
  • Lots of mounting holes to create your own “body” for the robot or additional sensors etc.
  • Makecode extension and micropython examples available


Please use Alkaline batteries. Rechargeable batteries do not provide sufficient voltage once they have started to deplete. This primarily affects the ultrasonic sensor, so you may be okay to use with the other functions even when the batteries get low

Coding Your MiniBit

Microsoft MakeCode

Click any image to enlarge.

To load the extension, select Advanced, then Extensions. Then enter “Minibit” into the search box and press Enter. If that doesn’t find it (there are sometimes earch glitches) you can enter the full URL into the search box: “https://github.com/4tronix/MiniBit”

NB. This post is being updated to relate to the new functions added (Feb 2020). Images may not match the text.

Once loaded, you will have a MiniBit menu item with 4 sub-folders: Motors, FireLeds, Sensors, Addons

Motor Blocks

The “New style block” section contains command for basic movements eg. “Go Forwards/Reverse at speed 60” or “Rotate Left/Right at speed 40 for 700 ms”. All the commands in this section use speeds from 0 to 100 inclusive.

Both the “Go” and the “Rotate” blocks have a paired block that will do the command for a selected amount of time and then stop

There are two ways of stopping. Coasting to a stop or braking. If you set the speed to 0 or use the “stop with no brake” command, then it will stop gently over the coourse of a second or so depending on initial speed). If you use the “stop with brake” block (or the go/rotate for a time block) then it will stop almost immediately.

You can also drive each motor individually using the “Move Left/Right/Both motors…” block. For instance if you set the left motor to drive at 600 and the right motor to drive at 1000, then it will perform an arc towards the left

We have introduced a new command to bias the driving in one direction or the other. This is to counteract any mismatch between the motors. So if your robot drifts over the left when you want it to go straight, then add a bias to the Right. At a speed of 60, a bias of 10% is roughly equal to 10 cms or so.

FireLed Blocks

You can use these blocks to set and clear one or all the FireLeds.

Note that the MiniBit defaults to automatically updating the FireLeds whenever any change is made, but you can change this behaviour by setting the update mode to manual. Then you would have to run the “Show LED changes” block after making any changes to the LED settings.

The LEDs on the MiniBit are labelled from 0 to 3. Use these numbers in the Makecode blocks to change the colour. eg setting LED 1 to Purple could be done like this:

The default brightness level is 40. This is plenty bright enough for most uses, saves damaging eyes, and reduces battery consumption. If required you can change the brightness from 0 up to 255

In the Advanced section of FireLeds :

Set update mode is used to switch between automatic LED updates or manual LED updates. The default is for automatic updates: every change to the LEDs results in all the LEDs being written to with the updated values. This is easy to understand, but it does mean that when making a lot of changes it can slow things down considerably. If doing that, it is best to use Manual update mode, make all the changes required, then use the show LED changes block to make all the updates in one go.

Rotate LEDs block will move the colour in LED 0 to LED 1, LED1 to LED2, LED2 to LED3 and LED3 to LED0. If done repeatedly, with a delay between each one, it will show the LED colours rotating around all the 4 LEDs.

Shift LEDs block will move LED0 to LED1, LED1 to LED2 and LED2 to LED3. It will blank LED0. So all the colours will disappear one at a time from 0 to 3

You can also create your own colours and replace the fixed list of colours in any command using the convert from red, green, blue block. For example, to set LED0 to a blue-green colour:


Sensor Blocks

Ultrasonic distance sensor: You can get the values to the nearest object in cm, inches or microseconds. This block returns a number that you can put into a variable or use it directly in a calculation or test

Line sensors: This optional accessory has 3 sensors: left, centre and right. These are connected directly to Pin 0, 1 and 2 of the Microbit. There are two ways of using the sensors: a) read the current value and check it’s state before deciding what to do, or b) use a block that only gets run when the requested event occurs. eg: when the left sensor finds a (black) line

More Blocks

These are the advanced usage blocks. Most students will not need to use them.

  • Set update mode is used to switch between automatic LED updates or manual LED updates. The default is for automatic updates: every change to the LEDs results in all the LEDs being written to with the updated values. This is easy to understand, but it does mean that when making a lot of changes it can slow things down considerably. If doing that, it is best to use Manual update mode, make all the changes required, then use the show LED changes block to make all the updates in one go.
  • Rotate LEDs block will move the colour in LED 0 to LED 1, LED1 to LED2, LED2 to LED3 and LED3 to LED0. If done repeatedly, with a delay between each one, it will show the lED colours rotating around all the 4 LEDs.
  • Shift LEDs block will move LED0 to LED1, LED1 to LED2 and LED2 to LED3. It will blank LED0. So all the colours will disappear one at a time from 0 to 3
  • You can also create your own colours and replace the fixed list of colours in any command using the convert from red, green, blue block. For example, to set LED0 to a blue-green colour:


Programming in microPython

Driving Motors

The motors use 2 pins each to determine the speed and direction. In microPython we use write_analog ( ) to set the first pin to a value between 0 and 1023 and the second pin to 0 in order to go forward. To reverse, we swap the pins so that the first pin is set to 0 and the second pin is set to the value.

On the MiniBit the left motor uses pins 12 and 8, and the right motor uses pins 16 and 14.

So to move the left motor forwards at speed 600:


And to move the right motor in reverse at speed 450:


To stop with no brake, use write_digital ( ) to set both pins to 0. To stop with brake, set both pins to 1.
eg. stop left motor with coasting and right motor with brake:



So a complete, but fairly useless, program to drive the motors for 2 seconds and then stop quickly, would look like this:

from microbit import *
pin12.write_analog(0) # temporary fix for python bug

pin16.write_analog(0) # temporary fix for python bug


Note the 2 lines that write_analog(0) before swapping a pin from analog to digital. These are required until a fix is obtained for the python PWM driver continually updating the pin type to analog

Lighting the LEDs

This uses the standard neopixel code, with the LEDs connected to Pin 13.

At the top of your program add import neopixel then:

leds = neopixel.NeoPixel(13, 4)

leds is then an array of all 4 LEDs. leds[0] refers to the LED 0 and leds[3] refers to LED3. Each element of the array is a set of 3 numbers representing the Red, Green and Blue values (each 0..255) for that LED. So to set LED2 to Blue:

leds[2] = (0, 0, 255)

All this does is update the array. To show the new value of the array, we need to call the show ( ) function as follows:

leds.show ( )


Reading the Ultrasonic Distance Sensor

The ultrasonic sensor breakout is on pin15.

The concept is simple: send an ultrasonic pulse out, then time how long it takes to return. Using the speed of sound and some maths, we can then work out the distance. The following complete program has 2 parts to it: a function sonar ( ) which returns the distance to the object, and the main code in a loop which continually prints the distance. We also need to import the utime library:

from microbit import *
from utime import ticks_us, sleep_us

def sonar():
    pin15.write_digital(1) # Send 10us Ping pulse
    pin15.set_pull(pin15, NO_PULL)
while pin15.read_digital() == 0: # ensure Ping pulse has cleared

    start = ticks_us() # define starting time
    while pin15.read_digital() == 1: # wait for Echo pulse to return
    end = ticks_us() # define ending time
    echo = end-start
    distance = int(0.01715 * echo) # Calculate cm distance
    return distance

while True:



Scooter for Raspberry Pi Zero

Scooter Robot for Raspberry Pi Zero

Purchase Scooter


Step 1 – Check you have all the parts

  • Main board with attached battery holder
  • 2 x wheels
  • 2 x 16mm pillars
  • 4 x screws
  • Female header

Step 2 – Remove the Battery Holder

Unscrew the battery holder, taking careful note of which way it is fitted


Step 3 – Fit the Raspberry Pi Zero

NB. You need to have a Pi Zero with the headers fitted. Model Zero WH is recommended

Screw the 16mm pillars onto the main board

Push the included female header into the low-profile header on the main board

Fit the Pi Zero to the header, with the Pi Zero sitting over the motors as shown below

Screw the Pi Zero onto the headers so it doesn’t fall off in use


Step 4 – Complete the Assembly

Refit the battery holder

Push on the wheels

Add batteries

Start coding…

Coding for the Scooter

Install the software

First you will need to prepare your Pi for the Smart RGB LEDs (fully compatible with neopixels). The best way we’ve found to do this is run Pimoroni’s curl script.
With your Pi connected to the internet, run (you don’t need to install the resources and examples):

curl -sS https://get.pimoroni.com/unicornhat | bash

Then install the Scooter software:

wget https://4tronix.co.uk/scooter.sh -O scooter.sh

bash scooter.sh

This installs the following files:

  • scooter.py the main library module
  • motorTest.py Use the arrow keys to control the motors. Use . and , to speed up and slow down after next arrow press. Press space bar to stop slowly and ‘b’ to brake quickly
  • ledTest.py Sets the Smart RGB LEDs to Red, Green, Blue, White in turn. Run with sudo python ledTest.py
  • lineTest.py shows the states of the line follower sensors
  • sonarTest.py gives the distance in cm to an obstacle using the optional HC-SR04P
  • avoider.py is a simple obstacle avoider. Run with sudo python avoider.py
  • lineFollower.py is a simple line follower. This runs the Scooter backwards and is best with lines printed from RobotSquare.




Pi2Go Mk2 Assembly

Assembly Instructions for Pi2Go Mk2

Click any image to enlarge

Step 1 – Check the Contents

Check you have:

  • Main Board
  • Battery Board
  • Caster Board
  • 2 Wheels
  • 2 Motors
  • 2 Motor Fixings Bags
  • Bag with mechanical parts (caster, encoder disks, headers)
  • Fixings Bag with screws and spacers

Fixings bag contains:

  • 4 x 5mm, M3, Male-Female pillars
  • 4 x 11mm, M2.5 Male-Female pillars
  • 4 x 19mm, M2.5 Female-Female pillars
  • 2 x 24mm, M3, Female-Female pillars
  • 4 x 4mm, M3 screws
  • 4 x 8mm, M3 screws
  • 8 x 6mm, M2.5 screws


Step 2 – Fit the Raspberry Pi Mountings

You will need 4 x 19mm, M2.5 pillars and 4 x 6mm, M2.5 screws.

Fit the 4 pillars to the main board as shown below


Step 3 – Prepare the Motor Mounts

Screw 2 of the 5mm, M3 pillars into the top of each motor mount. Ensure they are fitted tightly


Step 4 – Fit the Motor Mounts to the Motors

Pass one of the long screws from the outside of the motor (the side without the wires), through the motor and through the motor mount. Then loosely fit one of the nuts. It will sit at a strange angle as shown below

Then pivot the mount on the long nut, so that it pushes the wires out of the way and allows you to put the second long screw in. Then tighten up both nuts.

Repeat for the second motor, but fit the mount the other way up.

You should now have a left-hand and a right-hand motor assembly as shown above

Step 5 – Fit the Motor Assemblies to the Main Board

First, attach an encoder wheel to the inside shaft of each motor. Just push it on so that it is flush with the end of the shaft. It may take some pushing to get it on, and when it is on it will be a bit floppy. This is normal

Now use the 4mm, M3 screws, 2 for each motor, to screw through the main board into the pillars that you fitted into each motor mount in step 3


Step 6 – Assemble the Front Caster board

Use 2 of the 8mm, M3 screws to screw through the caster, through the caster PCB and into the 24mm, M3 pillars. Ensure the header pins are on the opposite side to the caster, and the same side as the pillars.


Step 7 – Fit the Caster Board to the Main Board

First push the extended 6-pin header into the header on the bottom of the main board, then plug the assembled caster board into the 6-pin header as shown below

Finally screw the 2 remaining 8mm, M3 screws through the main board and into the top of the pillars from the caster board. Tighten up well.


Step 8 – Fit the Raspberry Pi

You can use a Model A, A+, B or B+.

NB: To use a Raspberry Pi Zero, use the “Zero Spacer” PCB that is included with Pi2Go Mk2 since 1st September 2019. Kits shipped prior to that date do not include that spacer so you would have to use washers or similar to make up the extra 1.6mm height.

Push the 40-pin header onto the header on the main board

Then push the Raspberry Pi, upside down, into the 40-pin header, ensuring that all the pins line up and the mounting holes on the Raspberry Pi match the pillars

Screw the 11mm, M2.5 Male-Female pillars in well to hold the Pi firmly


Step 9 – Fit the Battery Board

Standard 6 x AA battery board shown. Fitting the other types is the same

Making sure that the LEDs marked 0 through 7 are at the front, use the 6mm, M2.5 screws to fix the battery board tightly to the 4 pillars.
Note that these pillars all carry power and/or signals, so it is important that they are all screwed in well. Failure to attach screws or pillars properly will result in failure of the Pi2Go.


Step 10 – Add the Wheels

Push on the wheels

And the build is complete!

Now go to the Programming Pi2Go Mk2 article to get it going



PiBug Assembly and Coding


Click on any image to enlarge

A barebones, but sturdy, 2WD buggy for the Raspberry Pi, that uses the Pi itself as the chassis for the robot.

Purchase PiBug Here

Assembling the PiBug

Step 0 – Check you have all the parts

  1. Main board
  2. Caster board
  3. Battery board
  4. Battery holder
  5. Castor Pack containing:
    1. Castor ball and housing
    2. Screws: M3, 6mm X 2
    3. Nuts: M3 X 2
  6. Fixings Pack containing:
    1. 22mm F-F pillars X 2
    2. 22mm M-F pillars X 2
    3. 30mm Pillars with holes X 2
    4. 25mm F-F pillars X 2
    5. 9mm M-F pillars X 8
    6. 6mm M2.5 screws X 6 (2 for the caster board)
    7. 30mm M2.5 screws X 4
  7. Motors X 2
  8. Wheels X 2

Step 1 – Attach the Castor to the Castor board

Put the M3 nuts in the holes in the castor housing, then use the 6mm M3 screws to fit the housing tightly to the castor board as shown, with the castor on the bottom and the large 4tronix logo on the top.

Step 2 – Assemble the Motor Mounts

  1. Screw a 22mm Male-Female pillar into a 22mm Female-Female pillar tightly, making a 44mm female-female spacer (remember: 22mm is not the same as 25mm)
  2. Repeat to create a second 44mm spacer
  3. Thread the 30mm screws through the holes in the motor and through the holes in the side of the 30mm pillars, then screw into the 44mm spacers
  4. Important: The 30mm pillars with holes have one end rounded for about 1mm. This is the bottom, the other end is the top that fits to the Raspberry Pi. The rounded end is tapped for M3, and the hex end is tapped for M2.5. Ensure you have these the correct way up
  5. Ensure that the motors shafts are facing outwards as shown in the photo

Step 3 – Fit Motor mounts to Raspberry Pi

You can use either Model A or Model B varieties of Pi. You can’t use a Zero (at least not without some ingenuity…)

  1. In this step we will use 4 of the 9mm pillars
  2. Screw the threaded end of the 9mm pillars through the 2 holes in the SD card end of the Raspberry Pi and into the top of the 30mm pillars of the motor mount assembly
  3. Ensure all screws are tightly fastened

Step 4 – Fit the Castor assembly to Raspberry Pi

  1. Use 2 of the 6mm M2.5 screws to attach the 25mm pillars to the top of the castor board
  2. Use the 2 more of the 9mm pillars and screw through the holes in the Pi into the top of the 25mm pillars as shown

Step 5 – Fit the PiBug Main Board

  1. Push the PiBug main board onto the GPIO connector of the Pi. Ensure all the pins are lined up properly and that the holes on the PiBug board line up with the 9mm pillars
  2. Use the threaded ends of the 4 remaining 9mm male-female pillars to fit the PiBug main board into position.

Step 6 – Fit the Battery Holder Board

Use the 4 remaining 6mm, M2.5 screws to fit the battery holder PCB as shown, with the snap connectors at the USB/ethernet end of the Raspberry Pi

Step 7 – Connecting it up

  1. Connect the JST leads from the motors into the appropriate motor connector on the PiBug board
  2. Fit 6 AA rechargeable batteries into the battery holder and then plug it into the connectors on the battery board.
  3. Note that it will work with alkaline batteries, but when the batteries get low it may suddenly reset the Pi when changing motor direction. This behaviour is better with rechargeable batteries.
  4. We recommend that you use a velcro strap or similar to hold the battery pack in place in case of accidents

Step 8 – Fitting the Optional Line Sensor Board

Use the servo leads to connect the line sensors from the caster board to the male header on the PiBug main board. Ensure the correct orientation of the cable: Brown wire should be on the robot’s right side of the castor board (labelled ‘G’) and on the bottom of the header on the PiBug board (labelled Gnd). Use the leftmost and rightmost positions for the cables

Step 9 – Fitting the Optional Ultrasonic Distance Sensor

  1. Use a HC-SR04P which is 3.3V compatible. Do not use the older HC-SR04.
  2. Remove the black plastic spacer, so that it can push all the way down.
  3. Plug it through the 4 holes in the battery board and push it all the way down (see photo above)
  4. The sensor is now connected to pin 20 on the Raspberry Pi

NB. We have also sold the HC-SR04+ for this purpose. it doesn’t need modifying by removing the spacer, but it is a little shorter and may need holding in to keep a good connection.

You have now completed the buggy and all you need to do is code it!

Coding PiBug

Pins used:

Left motor: #19, #26

Right motor: #16, #21

Ultrasonic: #20

Line sensors: #04, #27

Tact switch: #13

There are also 2 spare GVS style connectors which you can use for what you want on #17 and #18

A PiBug library module and example code is available by running the following commands in a terminal window on your Pi

  • wget https://4tronix.co.uk/pibug.sh -O pibug.sh
  • bash pibug.sh



Programming Robobit Buggy in Makecode

Programming Robobit Buggy

The Microbit Makecode Package supports all versions of the Robobit. Go to https://makecode.microbit.org/ or download the PC app from here 

Select Advanced or click on the gear icon, then select Extensions. Enter Robobit in the search box and search.

After it has loaded you will have an extra tool in 4tronix Orange with the Taxi icon, called Robobit

If you click on the Robobit tool, there are 3 subfolders for the Motors, the Sensors and the LedBar. There is also a single top-level block to allow you to select your model of Robobit – this should be used at the very start as shown below. In fact it can be the only thing in the start block

Now you are ready to start programming…

Programming the Motors

It’s a robot – you want it to move. So let’s see what we need to do.

The motors are individually controllable. So if you want, you can set different speeds for the left and right motors. But to start simply, let’s just drive forwards and backwards.

Forwards is represented by speeds from 0 to 1023. Backwards is speeds from -1023 to 0.

In both cases, 1023 is the fastest and 0 is dead stop. You will find that speeds below 200-300 may not be able to move the robot very much (it depends on battery levels, how “free” the motors are, etc)

The following code simple drives forwards at speed 600 (both motors at the same speed) for 1 second, stops for a second, then reverses and stops again. It repeats this forever

Yes, we have a moving robot!

NB. You may find, especially when the motors are new, that they go at different speeds and it doesn’t travel in straight lines. This is normal. The motors have a 10% speed tolerance, so can always be different speeds, but when they are new they can be especially stiff and even more different. Run the motors at full spoeed for a few minutes to free them up.


More Complex Motor Control

We can try and move in a square, or other shape. Great if you’re on a piece of paper and using the pen (Pen holders are designed for Sharpie felt tip pens – other pens are available)

Drive forwards for a bit, turn for a bit and do this 4 times. If you get the speed and times correct then a square can be formed. You will have to experiment with the speeds and times

The code above (click to enlarge) will do a four-sided figure and then stop. You will have to adjust the timings and/or speed of the spin to get it to accurately draw a square.

Of course, this software is tedious. It does the same thing 4 times. It would be better to use a loop function like this:

Here, we are using the “repeat nn times” block from the “Loops” toolbox


Now Let’s Flash some LEDs

It’s always fun to light LEDs and especially fun if you can control them individually with different brightness and colours.

The Robobit Mk3 and the Mk2 with LedBar have a row of 6 LEDs across the front as well as one in each front corner for a total of 8.

Scanner Feature

The Makecode package has a unique “Larsson Scanner” feature built-in which enables you to very easily scan the centre 6 LEDs back and forth at your choice speed and colour. Let’s do this to start with:

From the LedBar section of Robobit, select the “start scan…” block and insert it into the program after setting the required Robobit model. Here we are using a Mk2 Robobit with a LedBar attachment.

This code will immediately start the centre 6 LEDs scanning using various intensities of Red, with a delay of 100ms between changes, just like the Knight Rider KITT car!

Standard LED Programming

Normally when using the LEDs you will set on or more LEDs to a particular colour depending what you want the program to display. To do this, you need to understand how to work with individualy LEDs.

There are blocks you can use to set individual LEDs (or pixels), or all the LEDs at the same time. You can select colours using the names of colours (eg. Red, Yellow, Green, etc) or you can specify your own colour in terms of Red, Green and Blue components. All these blocks set the memory in the Microbit for the LEDs, but they do NOT update the LEDs with this memory information. To do that, you must use the most important block of all:

After doing this, all the changes you have made will be shown on the LEDs.

The other thing to remember is that the 8 LEDs are numbered from the left at 0 to the right at 7. So to flash the leftmost LED in Orange, we could do this:

This will set the LED at position 0 to orange, then wait for half a second, then set the LED to black (this is the same as OFF), then wait another half a second. Then this keeps repeating forever. Notice that each time we update the LED information, we than “show the LedBar changes”.


Using Sensors

Depending on your Robobit model and options fitted you may have an Ultrasonic Distance sensor and/or line following sensors. For the Robobit Mk3, these are both included as standard. For the Mk2, they can be purchased as options.

The Robobit Makecode extension includes blocks for using these easily.

Line Following Sensors

There are 2 of these mounted underneath the buggy, close to the front caster. They both use the same hardware sensor (TCRT5000) but the integrated ones on the Mk3 use 4tronix electronics specifically designed for this application whereas the Mk2 uses generic modules which have a trimmer on. Turn this until the LED turns off when it goes over a black line. You will find that the integrated units perform better.

The key thing to remember is that the Robobit buggy and the motors have a lot of interia when moving and cannot stop very quickly, so you must design your line follower program to move slowly (there are clever things that can be done, but we won’t look at that now). The Mk2 will have to go slower than the Mk3 because of the difference in sensitivity of the sensors.

To create a track to follow, you can use black electrical tape, or a permanent black marker. The surface needs to be reflective and the tape or marker pen needs to be not reflective. I prefer to print the tracks using track tiles from RobotSquare as these work excellently.

The simplest algorithm will be to check each sensor. If it is over a line, then turn the buggy that way, otherwise carry straight on. Keep checking in a loop like this:

Note that we are using speeds of less than 400. For a Mk1 or Mk2 you will probably have to go even slower.

This is a very basic algorithm and will have problems with junctions on the track etc. it also won’t do very well in a speed trial.


Ultrasonic Distance Sensor

These little sensors work like bats, by sending out an ultrasound ping and waiting for the echo to come back. The time for the echo to come back, together with the speed of sound, gives us an idea of the distance. Do not expect ultimate accuracy from these sensors.

You can choose to get the distance back in different units: centimetres, inches or microseconds. These examples all use centimetres (cm).

Obstacle Avoider

This simple program drives forwards until it detects an obstacle, then spins and reverse to avoid it before setting off again.

The first block checks if the robot is within 20cm of an object. If it is then it reverses at speed 500 for half a second, before turning left for 400ms. If it is not less than 20cm from an object it just drives straight on at speed 600.


Follow Me Program

This fun little program drives forwards until it gets close to an object and then stops. Then if the object (eg. your leg) gets further away, it will start moving again to follow you. However, if your leg gets closer then it will back away trying to keep the same distance from you:

In this one, we have created a variable called Distance so that we can check it against 2 values without reading the sensor again. Here we reverse the robot if it less than 20cm away and go forwards if it is more than 30cm away. Between 20cm and 30cm the robot will stay still.

Robobit Buggy Mk3

Assembling and Using Robobit Mk3

Robobit Mk3 buggy is a fully integrated and updated version of the Mk2 with all options (except Talon grabber) ready integrated into the unit

Purchase Robobit Mk3 here


  • Compact design DIY robot that is easy and quick to build
  • No soldering required. Screwdriver and spanner widget included and are the only tools required
  • Presented in an attractive gift box
  • Integrated ultrasonic distance sensor
  • Integrated line follower sensors
  • Integrated pen holder (designed for Sharpies, but other pens will fit)
  • Integrated RGB smart LEDs (aka neopixels) with semi-automatic Larsson scanner function
  • Fully supported by the Microsoft Makecode extension – search extensions for “Robobit”
  • Powered by 4 x AA batteries (not included)


Step 1 – Check you Have the Correct Parts


  • Main PCBA with prefitted ultrasonic sensor
  • Battery Holder PCBA (NB. Ring fits to rear of robot – no matter what it says on it!)
  • 2 x bags with motor mountings
  • Bag with 6 x 6mm M2.5 screws and 2 x 25mm pillars
  • 2 x motors with pre-fitted cables and plugs
  • 2 x Wheels

You should also have 2 tools: a double ended screwdriver (pull out of handle and turn round ot get alternate end), and a Pimoroni “spanner widget” for the motor mount nuts


Step 2 – Fit the motor brackets to the Motors


Mount the brackets the opposite way to each other so you have left hand and right hand assmblies as shown.

Use the Pimoroni spanner widget to held the nuts while you tighten the screws.

NB. Very important to ensure the edges of the nuts are flat with the top of the motors or the motors will be at a strange angle when fitted.


Step 3 – Fit Motors to Mainboard


Use the two 8mm M3 screws in each motor mount bag to fit the motors to the top of the main PCBA as shown above. Do these up tightly so the motors do not come loose with use.

Ensure the axles are at the rear and facing outwards.


Tighten the screws fully


Step 4 – Fit the Front Caster


Remove the ball if it is supplied already in the housing

Use two of the 6mm screws to fit the housing the the bottom of the main board as shown above


Step 5 – Fit the Battery Mounting Pillars


Use two of the 6mm screws to fit the 25mm pillars as shown above

Tighten up fully


Step 6 – Attach the Battery Holder


Use the remaining two 6mm screws to attach the battery holder firmly

Ensure the pen holder ring of the battery holder is directly above the pen holder hole in the main board


Step 7 – Finish

Push on the wheels and pop in the caster ball

Fit batteries.

Add your Micro:Bit and start programming!

Visit Programming Robobit Buggy in Makecode

Programming in Python

For text-based programming there is micro-python, and I prefer to use this offline using the Mu editor.  It provides a very neat and easy way of interfacing to the micro:bit without all the fuss of dragging and dropping.

Note on examples: We want to show people how the various features can be used. We don’t want to do the coding for you – that is the learning experience you should be taking away from using it. In the following examples, we will give you the tools to use all the features of Bit:Bot but it is up to you to combine them together in your code to make it do something useful. We do give a complete example of line-following – but it is a very basic algorithm and will get confused at T-junctions  and crossings; and it doesn’t use the neopixels.

Some great tutorials/examples for BitBot (which is very similar) by Mark Atkinson here


Each motor has two pins connected to it. One determines the speed and the other the direction:

Left motor: Speed Pin 0, Direction, Pin 8

Right motor: Speed Pin 1, Direction Pin 12

The simplest way to make the motors move is to set the Speed pin to HIGH and the Direction pin to LOW (to move full speed forwards)

Move left motor Forwards:


Move left motor Reverse:


If we want to change the speed of a motor, so that it is not going at full speed all the time, we need to use PWM (Pulse Width Modulation). This is means of changing the amount of power given to the motor by switching it on and off very fast. The percentage value of PWM determines the amount of each cycle that the output is ON. So a percentage of 100% is the same as being on all the time and thus the same as the examples above. A percentage of 50% would mean that the motor is only energised half the time, so it will go much slower. Note that the actual speed of the motor is not the same as the percentage of PWM – the motor won’t turn at all if the PWM value is too low and you will also get some stuttering at certain values. Nevertheless, being able to change the speed makes for a much better robot. For example, you can make a line follower that smoothly follows the line, rather than the normal shaking left and right.

To change the PWM value of a pin, we must use the analog_write commands. These can be set to a value between 0 (always off) to 1023 (always on), so 50% would be 511. Here are the commands to change the speed of the Right motor to approx 75% (value is 770)

Move right motor forwards at 75%


Doing this for the motors moving in reverse is a little confusing. Remember we need to change the direction pin to 1 for reverse. Then we need to set the amount of time in each cycle that the speed pin is LOW. This is the opposite of moving forwards, where we set the time for it to be High. Se we simply take the number (770 in this case) away from 1023, giving 253:

Move right motor Reverse at 75%




In fact, the name “neopixel” is a termed coined by Adafruit, but like “hoover” was a name of a brand of vacuum cleaner and is now a general term for all similar products, whoever makes it. The generic term is “smart RGB pixel” and is usually referenced with the name of the chip WS2812B. However, there are many different chips, all performing in a compatible way. The ones on the Robobit Buggy Mk3 are actually SK6812-3535

These smart RGB pixels are able to display any of 16 million colours by selecting a value of 0 to 255 for each of the Red, Green and Blue LEDs on each chip. The whole thing is controlled by a single pin on the BBC micro:bit (pin 13 for Robobit Buggy Mk3). It is simple to use the included neopixel libraries to control each pixel individually.

The 8 pixels are labelled on the Robobit Buggy Mk3, from 0 on the left arm to 7 on the right.

Set neopixel 2 to purple (red and blue)

import neopixel
np = neopixel.NeoPixel(pin13, 12)
np[2] = (40, 0, 40)
np.show( )

The first line imports the neopixel library. We only need to do this once, at the very top of your Python programThe second line creates an Python list with an element for each pixel. As shown, it specifies 12 pixels connected to pin 13. If you added more neopixels then you would increase the number from 12 by the number of pixels you added. eg. if you added a McRoboFace, then the total would be 12 + 17 = 29 so you would change the line to: np = neopixel.NeoPixel(pin13, 29)
The third line sets the pixel we have selected (number 2 in this case) to the colour which is set by three values in the brackets, each value can be from 0 to 255 and covers Red, Green and Blue. In our example we have set Red and Blue to 40.
The fourth line tells the neopixel library to copy all the data to the neopixels, from the Python list that we have been working with. It is only at this point that the LEDs change. In general, you would make all the changes you want and only at the end would you use a np.show( )

Line Follower Sensors

These are digital inputs and connected to Pin 16 (left) and Pin 14 (right).

You can use digital_read commands (as shown below) to read the value of each sensor. If the left sensor detects a line, it means the Robobit Buggy Mk3 is too far to the right, so it should move left. The opposite is the case if the right sensor detects a line. Here is some simple code for line following in Python (the actual motor commands are in separate functions for clarity)

while True:
    lline = pin16.read_digital()
    rline = pin14.read_digital()
    if (lline == 1):
        spinLeft( )
    elif (rline == 1):
        spinRight( )

Ultrasonic Distance Sensor

The integrated HC-SR04P ultrasonic distance sensor addon can be used most easily in Microsoft PXT. In MicroPython we can use the utime module to measure time at microsecond level. Below we have a function called getDistance() which returns the number of cm to the nearest object. Then we have a while loop that prints the distance every second:

def getDistance():
    pin15.write_digital(1) # Send 10us Ping pulse
    while pin15.read_digital() == 0: # ensure Ping pulse has cleared
    start = ticks_us() # define starting time
    while SONAR.read_digital() == 1: # wait for Echo pulse to return
    end = ticks_us() # define ending time
    echo = end-start
    distance = int(0.01715 * echo) # Calculate cm distance
    return distance

while True:
    display.scroll (getDistance ( ) )

Using Cube:Bit with Raspberry Pi

Using Cube:Bit with Raspberry Pi


Attaching the Raspberry Pi

The Cube:Bit is a 3D array of neo-pixels (SK6812-3535 to be precise). As such it can be accessed like any other strip, ring or matrix of neopixels using WS2812B compaible code.

The base for the Cube:Bit (available separately) contains a 40-pin GPIO connector, into which a Raspberry Pi Zero can be connected directly. “Full size” raspberry Pis can be connected using a ribbon cable.

The 5V supply provided to the Cube:Bit base is also passed to the Raspberry Pi to power it, so no additional power is required.

Only BCM18 (physical pin 12) is used from the Raspberry Pi. This is the PWM pin that all neopixel code uses to communicate, so all existing code will work without changes.

Note: There is a power input selection jumper on the Cube:Bit base. Ensure the jumper is in the correct place for your power supply (usually USB or DC Jack)


Adding the Neopixel Driver to the SD Card

If you have already used neopixels on your Raspberry Pi with the SD card you are using, then you don’t need to do anything here. Your existing code will work, although you would get strange shapes due to the layout of the individual LEDs in the Cube:Bit.

If you haven’t already installed the driver then there are a number of ways to do it. I find the easiest and reliable way is to run Pimoroni’s curl script from here: https://github.com/pimoroni/unicorn-hat Ensure your Raspberry Pi is connected to the internet and then type:

\curl -sS https://get.pimoroni.com/unicornhat | bash

You do not need to install the unicorn hat examples (although having a Unicorn Hat and using the examples is an excellent idea!)

This has now added the rpi_ws281x driver for neopixels. This driver is used by the Cube:Bit library


Adding the Cube:Bit Library and Examples

The cubebit.py library module is a layer over the rpi_ws281x driver library that implements functions specific to the Cube:Bit, such as mapping x, y, z co-ordinates to specific pixels, writing to defined planes, etc.

Although not strictly necessary (you could write your code to talk directly to the rpi_ws281x driver), it does allow code from the Microbit using the Makecode package to be easily ported to Raspberry Pi as many of the same library calls are implemented in the same or similar ways.

Again, with your Raspberry Pi connected to the internet, run the following commands to download the cubebit.py library and example code

wget http://4tronix.co.uk/cb.sh

bash cb.sh

This has now created a cubebit folder on your Raspberry Pi which contains the cubebit.py library and a number of example programs.

NB. For all these examples you should change the variable side to be the number of pixels per side on your Cube (eg. 3, 4, 5 or 8). This is always set near the top of the program. side = 5

You will need sudo access to run these, so for example: sudo python purpleRain.py

Type Ctrl-C to exit these demos.

  • test.py shows a rainbow on all pixels for 50 seconds, then starts stepping through each x,y,z value with a single yellow-ish pixel
  • purpleRain.py shows a cloud of purple pixels on the top layer, then flashes white (lightning), then the raindrops fall randomly and collect in a pool at the bottom. Finally, the “water” is recycled via one edge back to the top
  • planeTest.py moves a plane of randomly coloured pixels through the Cube:Bit in each direction repeatedly




Talon Grabber Assembly & Use

Talon Grabber for Bit:Bot and Robobit Buggy



Purchase Talon here


Assembling Talon for Bit:Bot

Step 1 – Ensure you have all the parts


Your kit should contain:

  • 3 x PCBs: Talon Base, Talon A, Talon B
  • 10 x Screws: M2.5, 6mm
  • 2 x Screws: self-tapping 6mm (there are also longer ones in the servo bag – ignore these)
  • 1 x Screw to attach servo arm to the servo (this is in the servo bag)
  • 1 x Metal gear servo (with various servo arms and screws
  • 1 x M3, 12mm, male-female pillar
  • 1 x M3, 6mm screw
  • 1 x M3 nylock nut
  • 1 x Pimoroni spanner widget to help tighten nylock nut
  • 4 x M2.5, 12mm pillars to attach to Bit:Bot


Step 2: Attach the Pillar for Floating Jaw


You will require the Talon Base PCB, M3 screw and M3 pillar

Fit the screw through the side of the board shown above and screw tightly into the female end of the pillar. Ensure this is firmly attached


Step 3: Fit the Servo to the Talon Base


You will need the servo and 2 of the M2.5, 6mm screws


Ensure the servo is positioned on the opposite side of the PCB to the pillar, and the shaft of the servo is in line with the pillar.

Pass the screws through the holes in the PCB and tighten into the flanges of the servo


Turn the PCB over and take the servo wire


Wrap it around the servo twice then plug the end into the 3-pin connector. Brown wire to the pin labelled GND, Red to VCC and Orange to P15


Step 4: Fit the Floating Jaw


You will require Talon B and the M3 nylock nut.

Fit the Talon B board onto the pillar so the the Talon logo is facing towards the talon Base PCB

Then screw on the nylock nut all the way, then undo it about quarter of a turn until the Talon B jaw can move freely without wobbling up and down



Step 5: Fit the Servo Arm to the Driven Jaw


You will need Talon A, the straight servo arm (from the servo bag) and the 2 small self-tapping screws (not the longer ones in the servo bag)

DO NOT pass the large shaft on the servo arm through the PCB. This shaft needs to be facing away from the PCB.


The screws then pass through the PCB into the Servo Arm and should be tightened.


Do NOT fit this arm to the Talon assembly yet. We need to get the servo working from the Bit:Bot first


Step 6: Fit the Talon Assembly to the Bit:Bot


You will need the 4 M2.5, 12mm pillars and 4 of the M2.5 6mm screws

Screw from the bottom of the Bit:Bot into each pillar, and tighten well. The pillars should be point upwards


Then using 4 more of the M2.5, 6mm screws, attach the Talon assembly to the top of the pillars.


Note that the servo should be at the top and the floating jaw at the bottom



Step 7: Fit the Driven Jaw (Talon A)


You will need the small screw in the servo bag to attach the drive jaw to the servo.

But first: Set the servo to position 5 degrees. If using the Makecode Bit:Bot package, then use the open talon block:



Once the servo is in the correct position, then fit the Talon A jaw, making sure it is closed and is interlocking with the floating jaw (Talon B)


Screw the little screw into the servo shaft to hold it in place


All done! Now you can open and close the jaws by setting the claw/talon to different values between 0 (fully closed) and 90 (fully open)

Cube:Bit – Magical RGB Cubes


Magical RGB “neo-pixel” Cubes of awesome


Purchase Cube:Bit here

The Cube:Bit collection is a range of 3D “neo-pixel” compatible cubes that are easily built from individual 2D slices.

The current range consists of 3×3, 4×4 and 5×5 slices together with a base unit that allows power to be added easily (big cubes can use a lot of power), and also allows a Micro:Bit or Raspberry Pi Zero to be plugged in directly. Of course you can use the Cube:Bits without the base and with any microcontroller thats supports neopixels: Arduino, Raspberry Pi, even Crumble (although the Crumble only supports up to 32 pixels at present, so only the 3x3x3 Cube:Bit can be controller)

Assembling the cube is easy with threaded rods in each corner providing the structural strength as well as the electrical connections.

Programming it is equally simple as these just appear as a string of neopixels, so use your favourite neopixel driver for your controller.

For the BBC Micro:Bit we have developed a MakeCode package that allows you to use the Cube:Bits extremely simply as well as giving you full x,y,z control of each pixel.



Assembling a Cube:Bit

The basic construction method is:

  1. Place the 1st slice A-Side up
  2. Place second slice B-Side up, ensuring Vcc/5V and Gnd are in correct place
  3. Place third slice A-Side up
  4. Continue placing slices as required, alternating A-Side and B-Side
  5. Each Slice has a DOUT (Data Out) from the lower slice connected to its own DIN (Data In) connection. This means that there is a “free-hanging” female-female pillar which is alternately on the left and then on the right, with a matching gap in the vertical pillars on the opposite side
  6. You can stack these as high as you want – no need to limit yourself to a simple Cube – but watch the power requirements!


Step 1 – Check you have all the bits


3x3x3 – 3 slices, 5 female-female pillars, 5 male-female pillars, 10 screws

4x4x4 – 4 slices, 6 female-female pillars, 7 male-female pillars, 12 screws

5x5x5 – 5 slices, 7 female-female pillars, 9 male-female pillars, 14 screws


The construction method is the same for all Cube:Bit sizes. Just keep going upwards as you add more slices


Make sure you can tell which is Side A and which is Side B for each slice (These are more clearly labelled on release version):

  • Side A has the names for each LED as 0, 1 , 2, 3, etc.
  • Side B has the names as B0, B1, B2, etc.


Step 2 – Add Pillars to bottom slice


You will need 4 female-female pillars for underneath, and 3 male-female pillars and a screw for the top

Make sure you have the slice with the A-Side upwards, then fit a female-female pillar below the DIN connection (next to LED 0) using the screw


Fit the other 3 female-female pillars using the male-female pillars to hold them in place


Step 3 – Prepare the Second Slice


Make sure the slice is B-Side upwards, then take a female-female pillar and a screw and fit the pillar on top of the slice in the DOUT connection (next to B8, B15, or B24 depending on your cube size)



Step 4 – Fit the Prepared Second Slice


Use 2 male-female pillars and a screw.

IMPORTANT: Make sure you place Vcc/5V on this slice directly above Vcc/5V on the slice below.

Screw the pillar from the DOUT of the lower slice into DIN of this slice using the screw

Then use the male-female pillars to attach the remaining 2 pillars from below


Now repeat steps 3 and 4 as often as required – no repeats for a 3x3x3 cube

Remember to alternate A-Side and B-Side as you stack the slices


In fact you can keep going as high as you like to make a tall tower – this one is 5 x 5 x 15 slices high

TIP: If you are using the Makecode extension, then there is a hidden block called “set height of tower” that you should use before the “create cube:bit” block

Access this hidden block by switching to Javascript and then typing in cubebit.setHeight(<number of slices>). eg. for a six slice, 4×4 tower:

Step 5 – Fit the Top Slice


Back to A-Side upwards (assuming 3x3x3 or 5x5x5).

Use three screws to fit the top slice, ensuring that it is DOUT that is NOT connected and that Vcc of this slice is still above Vcc of previous slice


You now have the completed cube on legs as well as spare screws/pillars.

Final options at this point are:

  1. Leave as is and use croc clips (alligator clips) to connect to the legs for 5V, Ground and Signal
  2. Connect to the base using 4 of the spare screws. Make sure you connect 5V and Vcc
  3. Remove the bottom legs and change the first pillars to female-female held in with screws. This makes a tidy cube, then connect to it using soldered wires or tags, etc.


Powering Your Cube:Bit

These cubes have a lot of LEDs and LEDs require power. The 3x3x3 has 54 LEDs and the 5x5x5 has 250 LEDs. On full brightness with White colour this will be several amps.

You _can_ drive them with a low current as long as you set the brightness down low (40 or less) and you don’t set a lot of LEDs to white. This is perhaps suitable for the 3x3x3 cube.

I recommend however using the base and supplying power either via the USB connection or the DC jack connection. There are other connectors on the base as well. Make sure you have changed the jumper to select the power input you are using!

Example currents used (powered by 5V)

  • 3x3x3 all LEDs at Red, brightness 40 (out of 255) – Current 150mA
  • 3x3x3 all LEDs at White, brightness 40 – Current 340mA
  • 3x3x3 all LEDs at White, brightness 255 – Current 1.9A
  • 4x4x4 all LEDs at Red, brightness 40 – Current 350mA
  • 4x4x4 all LEDs at White, brightness 40 – Current 800mA
  • 4x4x4 all LEDs at White, brightness 255 – Current 4.5A
  • 5x5x5 all LEDs at Red, brightness 40 – Current 680mA
  • 5x5x5 all LEDs at White, brightness 40 – Current 1.6A
  • 5x5x5 all LEDs at White, brightness 255 – Current 8.75A

These numbers are important. For instance on the microbit you shouldn’t power the LEDs directly.

So use a 2.5A power supply for the 3x3x3 cube, 5A for 4x4x4 and 10A for the 5x5x5. Although if you set the brightness down low etc. then using lower current power supply is possible and we do most of our testing using a 4A supply. If the brightness is set to 40 (the default) then you can use a 3x3x3 cube with 0.5A power supply and a 4x4x4 with 1A.


  • Signal from controller (eg Micro:Bit) to DIN on the bottom slice
  • Ground from controller to GND on bottom slice
  • Ground from power supply to GND on bottom slice
  • Power from 5V DC power supply to Vcc/5V on bottom slice


Photo above shows using croc clips to connect to the legs. Yellow is signal from Micro:Bit Pin 0, Green is Gnd from Micro:Bit. Black is Gnd from power supply and Red is power from power supply



In the photo above we’re using a 5V DC power supply with a 2.1mm DC Jack connector (centre positive) that connects directly onto the base. The signal and ground from your controller of your choice then connect elsewhere on the base (eg. the croc clip connection or the GVS connector or the 4tronix Playground connector)


Using Cube:Bit with Raspberry Pi

Please follow this blog entry for installation, Cube:Bit python library and examples.


MakeCode for Micro:Bit Extension

There is a Makecode extension that makes it easy to use the Cube:Bit using x,y,z three-dimensional matrix address of the pixels.

The slice is physically laid out with the LEDs snaking from the DIN corner then back along the next row, and so on until it reaches the DOUT corner (ie. along x axis then along y axis). As alternate slices are mounted upside down and rotated, then the snaking goes along y-axis then along x-axis in these slices. So it is much easier to use the built-in mapping block.

To load the package (until it is formally released) go to Advanced (or click on cog icon) then select Extensions. In the search box add the URL https://github.com/4tronix/cubebit

This provides the following blocks:

Your first block in the start of program should create a cube of the correct size. If you are using the Cube:Bit base then this will connect via Pin0, but you can change this when not using the base. This will create a string of neopixels of the correct length for your cube and set the brightness to the default of 40. If you want, you can change the brightness with the “set Cube:Bit brightness” block, anywhere from 0 to 255 (255 is the brightest)

You can then write a colour to any or all of the pixels in the cube. eg set (x,y,z) 2,3,0 to Blue when Button A is pressed

Note that this is using the map block to convert x,y,z co-ordinates to a Pixel ID

Note also that the show Cube:Bit changes block is required to actually set the LEDs to the new values that you have set.

TIP: Setting LEDs is always a two part process. Make all the changes you want then show the changes on the Cube:Bit. Just making the changes has no effect on the pixels as it only changes internal memory. This is the FIRST thing you should check if your program is not creating the effect you require


There is a block that allows you to write to a whole plane of pixels at one time. Decide which axis the plane lies on and which plane within that axis:


Additionally you can specify exactly which RGB values to use, instead of simply picking one of the predefined colours:

Make a Rainbow

An easy and fun way to start is to create a rainbow effect using the built-in blocks

The Start block creates the cube then sets the LEDs to a rainbow scheme (the show cube:bit changes block makes the LEDs match the settings you have selected

Then the Forever block moves the colours all the pixels by one position. Taking the colour of the last pixel and putting it back into the first pixel. This is called rotation. It does this every 20ms so you get an ever-changing colour effect

Example Software

While testing Cube:Bit we have developed a few interesting animations and games for CubeBit

You can download them all from this zip file

Extract the files into a folder on your PC (and remember where you put them)

Then click on Projects, then Import File, then browse to find the file you require.

All examples have a variable called “side” which is set at beginning of the Start block to be 3, 4 or 5 depending which size Cube:Bit you have. Changing the value of side will allow the rest of the program to work correctly and of course affects the way the x, y, z mapping is calculated. You will need to change this line so that it sets the correct size for your Cube:Bit.

  • PlaneBounce – this simply lights up a plane and moves it left and right. Coloured Green going right and Red going left
  • raindrop – sets a blue/white colour to be rain on the top of the Cube, then drops each pixel to the bottom one at a time and randomly. If you tilt the cube, different planes become the top (at the start of each cycle)
  • PurpleRain – as raindrop, but in purple and with a lightning flash at the start and rain recovery animation at the end
  • RainSplash – as raindrop, but makes a little splash as each raindrop lands (not great!)
  • Revolver – rotates planes in random axis and colours. This works best with larger cubes
  • RGBTest – cycles through Red, Green, Blue and White, lighting every pixel on the Cube. A good test of power supply – check the White is actually White and not a yellow/orange colour
  • Scan – lights up all LEDs in x, y, z order from 0, 0, 0 to size of the Cube
  • TimesCube – builds a small 2x2x2 cube in one corner and grows it to fill the Cube:Bit, then shrinks into a different corner. And repeat
  • TicTacToe amd BitCommander – provides a 2 player game of 3D Noughts and Crosses. Install the BitCommander software on the microbit in your Bit:Commander and the TicTacToe software in your Cube:Bit. Use the buttons and dial on the Bit:Commander to move your person around and press on the Joystick to select the pixel you want. The cursor then changes from Red to Green and it is Player 2’s turn. When a line of 3 is made in any direction, the winning line is flashed on and off. Press the Red button on Bit:Commander to start again